Interactive Treat Toys for Dogs

Treat toys for dogs are great toy ideas for several reasons. Did you know that bloat is considered to be the leading cause of death in dogs? For dogs that eat too quickly, treat toys can cause the dog to slow down and as a result gulp less air in. Slowing down a dog's eating is the best way to prevent bloat. Another reason treat toys are great is because they stimulate your dog mentally. Many of the toys are puzzles and cause your dog to use problemsolving skills. A mentally stimulated dog is a happy dog!

Here are some great treat toys to consider for your dog:

Nina Ottosson's Dog Tornado

The idea behind the Nina Ottosson's "Dog Tornado" is for the dog to dislodge the removable bones, then turn the revolving sections to reveal the hidden treats. The Tornado has many variables to increase the level of difficulty as the dog's skill improves. With a little practice he will soon learn to dislodge the bones and turn the Tornado to access the hidden rewards.

Aikiou Interactive Dog Bowl

The Aikiou has compartments in which you can hide different types of food. This will keep your animal busy during mealtimes, turning the wheel and opening the sliding doors to access the food. This system adds brain stimulating component to feeding, slowing down the rate at which food is ingested and thus reducing digestion problems. Making mealtime an intellectual activity is very positive and stimulating for your pet since he will need to use his senses to hunt for his meal and is rewarded when he succeeds. This bowl can also be used for education and interactive games both pet and owner can enjoy. Simply hide food rewards in the compartments and encourage your pet to find them. For Balanced, Entertaining Mealtimes! Let your dog discover how much fun it is to eat from an Aikiou dog food bowl. Using his paws and muzzle, your pet must turn the wheel and open the sliding doors to access the food that is hidden underneath. Suitable for dogs of all sizes. Your dog will discover how much fun it is to eat from an Aikiou bowl, with its unique search and find system. Can hold up to 3 1/2 cups of food.

Kyjen Dog Games Treat Wheel

With eight treat or food chambers, Kyjen Dog Games Treat Wheel combines the difficulties of Star Spinner and Paw Hide. The dog must use its mouth to lift each cup, then spin the top to reveal more treats. Rubber soles prevent slippage.

Buster Food Cube

Smarter Toys make their dogs work for their food which provides healthy mental and physical stimulation. The Buster Food Cube is the most difficult treat dispenser and features an adjustable hole to control difficulty level.

Premier Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Dog Toy

Premier Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble makes dogs work for their food in a fun and challenging way. Mentally and physically stimulates dogs by appealing to their natural prey and stalking drives. Holds approximately 2 cups of food. The Treat Meter on either end of the balls randomly dispenses kibble and treats.

Do you have a favorite interactive treat bowl or toy for your dog?

3 Illnesses that Affect Both Pets and Their Owners

When we think about getting sick, we think of boxes of tissue, days spent in bed, chicken noodle soup, and, for pet owners, a warm nose snuggled up next to you. Pets have a way of just making a sick day at home that much better. It's a widespread fact that people who have four legged companions live longer, healthier, and happier lives. That being said, there are times that our loving animals feel under the weather along with us. There are many different human and pet illnesses that cannot be passed from one of us to the other. So, if your cat or dog has the sniffles or a cough, it's most likely that you have no worry of catching it—but, there are several illnesses that can be passed from pet to owner and owner to pet. Keep these three illnesses in mind next time you or your pet are feeling ill. Being educated on what can affect your pet and yourself as a pet owner is the best defense.

Though generally not caused by the same type of mite, both
humans and animals can become infected with scabies.
Photo credit: scabies-information.com

Mange or Scabies

For the most part, our pet cats and dogs have little to worry about when it comes to mange. Indoor cats that are well kept will very rarely get mange or scabies, but it can be fairly common in dogs. The mange that is also known as scabies is highly contagious to humans and can be contracted by dogs as well. This mange is caused by mites and will appear with symptoms of severe itching, skin irritations, and hair loss. In both dogs and humans, scabies should be treated as quickly as possible. While the illness itself is not immediately threatening, secondary infections can occur quite easily with open sores on the skin. This kind of mange can be avoided with careful hygienic care and some general attentiveness to your pet's skin condition. The mites that cause mange are commonly found on the ears, face, and extremities.

Toxoplasma
Photo credit: marvistavet.com

Toxoplasmosis

While this parasite can be found in any warm-blooded animal, cats are one of the most common pets to come into contact with it. Cats make ideal hosts for the toxoplasmosis parasite. Cats will become infected by preying on infected birds or rodents and will show no symptoms of the disease, making it extremely challenging to detect. Many people are exposed to the disease without ever showing symptoms or even knowing. However, in individuals who have weakened immune systems or are pregnant, toxoplasmosis can cause headache, sore throat, muscle pain, fever, and general malaise. Humans come into contact with this illness through infected kitty litter.

The classic ring-shaped patches characteristic of ringworm.
Photo credit: diseasespictures.com

Ringworm

To the surprise of many, ringworm is not actually a worm or parasite, but actually a fungus. The name comes from the commonly ring-shaped display the fungus gives on the skin. Ringworm can be transmitted from pet to human or from human to pet very easily. It is a slow growing fungus that feeds on dead skin cells and the hair of all species of mammal. The most common form of ringworm is often found on young cats and dogs. The spores can be transferred easily from one surface to another. On pets it appears as a dry, oval, scurfy patch of broken fur. This is one of the most common diseases transferred from pet to human and human to pet of all the illnesses on this list. Keep these three things in mind to better care for yourself and your pet.

Today's guest post comes courtesy of Amelia Wood, who often writes about medical billing and coding certification and welcomes your responses at amelia1612@gmail.com.

Keeping Pets Happy and Cool in the Summer Heat

Pet safety during summertime is always important, but the intense heat this year can make practicing hot weather safety a matter of life or death. Pets are like family members and you want your pet to be happy and comfortable. If you have an indoor or outdoor cat or other pet, it's important to consider how you can keep your furry friend safe on days when the temperatures rise above your pet’s comfort level. These tips can help you be proactive about your pet's safety, while allowing your cat to stay comfortable throughout the summer.

Hot Weather Safety for Outside Pets

• Providing a Cool Place to Rest. A cool, shady place to lie down is important for outside pets. A dog might appreciate having a kiddie pool to lie in, but a cat probably won't use one. Cats and dogs alike will seek out cool areas in a shady garden where the soil is naturally cooler. Cement areas in the shade also provide a nice area to keep cool.



Outdoor waters like this one give your dog
access to fresh water at all times

 • Sufficient Water. Water is important to keeping your pet cool on a hot summer day. Change the water frequently to keep it fresh and as cool as possible. Toss ice cubes into the water for an extra cool treat.

• A Way into the House. A pet door provides your dog or cat with a way to get inside where it's cool. This is especially helpful if you’ll be away from home while your pet is outside.

Safety Tips for Indoors

• Keep it Cool with Air Conditioning. Set the air conditioning at a comfortable temperature so your pet can keep cool while you're at work. To ensure your air conditioner provides as much cool air as possible, change the filter at least once a month.

• Fresh Water Daily. Sufficient water supply indoors is just as important as it is outdoors, even if the temperature is cooler. It's better to err on the side of caution and leave out a bowl of water that's too big than to return home and find your pet's water bowl completely empty.

• Close Pet Doors While Away. It's wise to close or lock the door to prevent your furry friend from going outside on extremely hot days. Most dogs can make it for several hours before they have to go to the bathroom. If you have a puppy or older pet, hire a pet sitter to let them out once a day. Some cats enjoy going outside, but it's not necessary since a cat can use an indoor litter box.

Prevent Heat-Related Conditions

Most pet owners have good intentions and don't set out to put their pet at risk of heat exhaustion. As much as your pet might enjoy car rides, it's best not to bring your dog or cat in the car with you unless you can bring him or her inside once you arrive at your destination. The temperature of a closed car, or even one with the windows cracked open, can get hot fast and put your pet in potential danger.

If your cat shows signs of heatstroke, such as heavy panting, drooling, staggering or disorientation, wrap his or her body in cold, wet towels, mist with cool water and place an ice pack nearby. Quickly take your pet to the veterinarian to get life-saving, professional care. Fast action is imperative to safeguard your pet's health.

The best approach to heat-related safety issues is one that's proactive. Know how to keep your pet cool and follow through with it each day.

Cameron Tyler loves his pets and replaces his air filters every month to make sure his pets stay nice and cool in the summertime.

Pet Safety: Poisons

Click to view a larger image

Infographic Guide to Puppy CPR

Throughout history dogs have been our friends and companions. They have helped us perform work, enjoy play, and travel from place to place. Some dogs assist us when we have special needs we cannot manage on our own. There have been instances where dogs have even saved our lives. A time may come when a dog or puppy you know will need a human to save its life. Would you know how to perform puppy CPR?

Learning canine CPR allows dog owners and dog lovers to be prepared in the rare instance that their dogs need life saving interventions. For breeders or owners who whelp puppies, it is imperative to become familiar with how to care properly for pups that are born in cardiac or respiratory arrest. The steps to perform puppy CPR are not difficult, but they just may be the best gift that you can give to your canine
friend. Learn more about puppy CPR in this educational infographic:

(Click on any part of the infographic for a larger version)

Puppy CPR Infographic Via the Carrington College Veterinary Technology Program at Carrington.edu.

Combating a Serious Flea Problem

Fleas are almost invisible due to their tiny size, but they can easily ride into your home on a sock or pants leg. Fleas cause obvious discomfort to your dog or cat and occasionally attempt to make a meal out of you and your family! Ctenocephalides felis, or the common car flea has a complex lifecycle that you need to understand to successfully eliminate. Fleas hatch into the first of several worm-like stages. Immediately, these larvae squirm down into the carpet or grass to avoid light. They live for weeks on the ground, seeking small amounts of organic material to eat. The best meal for them is "flea dirt," the remains of an adult flea's blood meals. Once these larvae attain a certain degree of health, they go into a pupae state and can lay in dormant wait for up to two years! Once they sense the vibrations of a large animal nearby, they hatch and immediately seek a host. Cats are their preferred home, but they are quite happy to choose a dog as well. Adult fleas spend all their time on the host animal eating and laying eggs, which fall from the animal to restart the cycle.

This peculiar lifecycle explains why in order to successfully eliminate fleas from your household you need to focus on the animal's body (where the adult fleas are), and areas where the pet spends a majority of its time (where the eggs and larvae live). Adult fleas are best attacked with IGRs or insect growth regulators. IGRs are a group of pesticides that quite effectively destroy the reproductive system of insects but are essentially harmless to mammals. These are the products that are squeezed from a small tube onto the dog or cat's neck or spine. Frontline and Advantage fit this description, for example. Follow the instructions carefully, as the flea's lifecycle is longer than the effective period of these products. Also, be aware that these products are strong chemicals and you should consult a vet before using even the over-the-counter versions. Homemade remedies such as sticky pads and diatomaceous earth (DE) will kill some fleas, but generally cannot be used to eliminate the entire flea population.

But removing the adult fleas does not solve the overall problem. Outdoor areas your pet frequents must be treated with a pesticide as well, usually a hose end sprayer full of a pyrethrin-based poison. The pet's bedding should be washed frequently in hot water and that and other areas your pet spends time in must be vacuumed. Then vacuum again often, as the vacuuming will cause vibrations that encourage the flea pupae to hatch and move around seeking a host. Young adult fleas will work their way out of a vacuum cleaner bag eventually, so empty your vacuum far away from the house or use a product like Flea Vac pellets to kill these insects inside the vacuum cleaner. These steps must be repeated periodically as well, to ensure you are capturing each successive generation of fleas.

Flea infestations can be maddening. But with a good plan and by staying mindful of the flea's lifecycle, any flea population can be brought under control and removed from your house.

About the Author

August Bering V, "Augie" to his friends, is President of Bering's Hardware in Houston, TX. Bering's is well known for a broad range of carefully selected home goods such as outdoor living products to pet products, and red carpet service that has delighted customers for generations since 1940. From your bridal registry, decorating your first home, to your first baby registry, Bering's has special gifts for special occasions and the right tools for the right job. Augie enjoys spending time with his family and friends, grilling and cooking, playing hard outside, travelling, design, art, live music, and spending as much time as he can with his family.

5 Reasons Cats Pee Outside the Litter Box

Having your cat urinate outside the litter box is one of the most challenging behavioral issues a cat owner can face. Not only can it be expensive to clean and/or replace your furniture or carpet, it can create a big rift between you and your cat.

There are many reasons your cat might stop using the litter box, some which you may not have even thought of. Though this list is by no means all-inclusive, here are five of the common reasons a cat will pee outside the box.  

Health Issues

The first thing you should rule out when your cat stops using the litter box is a health issue. Things like a bladder infection, UTI, or struvite crystals often cause a cat to stop using the box. When the cat strains to urinate and it is painful, they may develop an association between the litter box and pain. You may find your cat urinating on smooth surfaces such as in your bathtub, on your linoleum, or in your laundry basket. The cat perceives these smooth surfaces as a more comfortable place to urinate. Taking your cat in to the vet as soon as you notice these symptoms is very important; fortunately, most infections can be easily treated with antiobiotics and the litter box avoidance issues should resolve on their own.

Fine grained cat litter is the most accepted litter

Photo Credit: pets.webmd.com

Type of Cat Litter

The type of cat litter you use may not seem like a big deal, but it is to your cat! One common mistake cat owners make is buying heavily scented cat litter. Most commercial litters are scented to cover up odors; this may be good for the owner, but it’s not good for the cat. Cats have a much keener sense of smell than humans, and perfumed cat litter can be absolutely overwhelming to their sensitive noses. That alone can be enough to make a cat avoid the litter box! Consider purchasing unscented cat litter for your cat’s box.

The texture of the cat litter can also be very important to your cat. Out in “the wild”, cats bury their waste in sand or another finely grained substrate. Some commercial cat litters are made of larger, hard chunks of clay that can be painful to the feet of sensitive cats. Many cats simply will not like the texture. In general, cats prefer a finely milled clay litter.  

Type of Litter Box

Many times when we choose the cat’s litter box, we choose what is convenient for our home. We fail to take into account the cat’s psychological and physiological requirements. If you notice urine or feces directly outside the litter box, do not automatically assume your cat is not using the box. They may just be using the *wrong* box for them! It is not uncommon for cats to “do their business” at the very back or very front of their litter box, thereby hanging their back end over the side of the box and missing it entirely. Sometimes this can happen due to their litter box being too small, but sometimes it can just be due to the way your cat likes to “go”.

A Rubbermaid tote litter box
Photo Credit: paws-and-effect.com

As a general rule, the bigger the litter box the better. Many owners will make their own cat box out of a Rubbermaid tote, and cut an entrance for the cat in the front. This is a good-sized container, and also can help to eliminate the problem of the cat overshooting the box. For cats that tend to overshoot, a high-walled box is best (or even a covered litter box if the cat will tolerate it.) Another general rule of thumb is that you should have as many litter boxes as you have cats, plus one. In other words, if you have two cats you should have three boxes. If you have one cat, you should have 2 boxes. And so on and so forth.

Speaking of covered litter boxes, these can also be a common reason for a cat to urinate inappropriately. In a multi-cat household, a covered litter box can make a cat feel trapped while they potty and make them feel susceptible to ambush. Rather than put themselves in perceived danger, they may just stop using the litter box altogether and find a more open place to urinate. A covered litter box can also be problematic in a single-cat household. Though we humans like the idea of keeping the cat’s waste out of sight, we must again take into account the cat’s keen sense of smell. A covered box tends to trap in odors, particularly the ammonia from urine. This can easily become overwhelming for a cat and cause them to avoid the litter box entirely. If a covered box is absolutely necessary, it should be cleaned on a daily basis and sanitized once weekly to keep odors at bay.  

Location of Litter Box

You like privacy, and so does your cat! Your cat’s litter box should always be placed in a quiet, low-traffic area of the house. Many people choose the basement, laundry room or bathroom. You should never place the cat’s litter box in a busy area of the house like a child’s playroom, and the cat should never have to cross a very busy area to get to their litter box. The box should be placed in an area where the cat can keep a lookout while he does his business. Though they’ve been domesticated for a very long time, cats still have strong survival instincts and need to be on the lookout for “predators” while they are in a place as vulnerable as their litter box. As such, the box shouldn’t be tucked away behind a curtain or in a hideaway if possible.

Homes with multiple litter boxes should also strategically place them throughout the home, on different levels and in different rooms. It may seem easiest to place several litter boxes next to each other, but doesn’t that just defeat the purpose of having multiple boxes? Many cats prefer to urinate in one box, and defecate in another. You may find that your cat likes to urinate in the litter box upstairs, while she prefers to defecate in the box in the basement. Cats like options!

It is also important to note that cats do not like to defecate in the area where they eat. Therefore, the litter box should never be placed in the same room as the food and water dishes.

Litter Box Hygiene



Thanks for keeping my potty clean!
Photo credit: consciouscat.net



Cats are impeccably clean creatures. The litter box is no exception! As a rule of thumb, a cat’s litter box should be cleaned once per day. Imagine how you would feel if you entered a restroom only to find the toilet covered with urine or overflowing with feces. You’d probably run the other way, and that’s exactly how your cat feels when the litter box gets out of hand. Your cat’s sense of smell comes into play again also, and a smelly litter box can literally make your cat turn tail and walk the other way…directly onto your carpet or couch. It’s far easier to maintain a clean litter box than to remove the smell of urine from fabric!



Does Motor Oil Really Help Against Demodectic Mange?

You may have heard this one before: “If your dog has demodectic mange, just get some motor oil and rub it on the infected parts. It’ll get better, trust me!”

This remedy has all the features of an old wives’ tale. A rumor heard from a bar somewhere? Check. Advice supposedly passed down from ‘seasoned veterans’? Check. Implausible solution? Double check.

Alas, this particular remedy sounds too good to be true, and it is. It’s pretty much a given that whenever an industrial-grade fluid touches naked skin, the results will always be unpleasant. This includes dumping the stuff on a dog with a skin problem.

Photo credit: amazonpilgrim.com

But what would happen if you pour motor oil all over your dog? For starters, there’s always the severe rashes that will result due to skin irritation. It will also cause extensive skin damage, because our dog’s skin will actually absorb all the toxic chemicals from the motor oil.

That’s all just on the surface too, but it gets much worse than that. When a dog absorbs the oil through the skin, it penetrates the body and affects the internal system as well. Obviously, this causes a whole new host of problems, such as drastic changes in the blood pressure, as well as severe kidney and liver damage.

All this makes for a list of things horrible enough to get nightmares from, but unfortunately there’s one more gruesome aspect left to cover. Remember how dogs just love to lick and bite themselves all over, especially if they have demodectic mange? Well, what happens if they follow their instincts and proceed to lick their own skin… after being coated with motor oil?

Yes, they’ll swallow it, and the oil will induce vomiting, which in turn will introduce some of the oil into the lungs as well. This subsequently gives them pneumonia.

That should be enough of a reason why you should never, ever use motor oil to treat demodectic mange.

Now that we’re clear about what not to do, however, let’s indulge in our curiosity a little more. Why the heck did people use motor oil in the first place, anyway?

Motor Oil probably did cure demodectic mange once, buuuuuut…

"Please leave the motor oil to your engine, and the mange treatment to your veterinarian!" 

Yes, there’s a good chance that it was used as a treatment option successfully. Obviously, even this statement could be false – I’m really just speculating here.

I’ve found that there’s actually a coherent reason why it was viable then, but not now. But rather than jump into conclusions from the get-go, let’s walk through my little pet theory first. It’s essentially made up of three key points, the first being:

Motor oil produced 50 years ago had a different chemical makeup than the ones available today.

It’s no secret that the oil produced nowadays are very different from the ones made 50 years ago. There have been many changes to its chemical properties since then, but one of the more significant ones concern the level of sulfur present; it’s much, much lower than it once was.

Most people used burnt motor oil for mange treatment – fuel that was already spent in some form.

One interesting trend that I’ve been coming across is the fact that many of those who vouch for the oil’s viability used burnt versions of motor oil. They swore up and down that it worked, even though many other people horrifically disagreed. Keep in mind that this was what they did, not what they heard somewhere.

It’s also worth noting that burnt motor oil still contains a fraction of sulfur in it. But what’s all this talk of sulfur about, anyway? Well, it actually turns out that…

Sulfur is actually a pretty good deterrent to parasites.

The chemical is commonly used to treat parasites on both pets and humans, and there are many products in the market that include sulfur as a main ingredient. In fact, some demodectic mange remedies also include the use of sulfur in their procedures.

So it’s not much of a stretch after all for motor oil to be perceived as a good remedy for demodectic mange. In the past, the higher sulfur levels may have helped initially in clearing up the skin problem, which led to the unlikely remedy that we’ve been hearing about for ages since. The current users of burnt motor oil may also be seeing some form of success because the sulfur content was actually having a positive effect on the dog.

However, I hope you haven’t forgotten that motor oil is definitely not acceptable as treatment for
your dog’s demodectic mange! Some may indeed have gotten lucky and had their dogs’ mange cured by it, but it’s still a very dangerous method to use and will most definitely not work out for most other dogs.

Besides, there are other, better options out there. Why would you choose to dunk your dog in a smelly, greasy liquid instead?

Need more information on safer and easier home remedies for demodectic mange? Just visit dogskintreatments.com to find out more.

Is it Healthy to Start Your Puppy on an All-Natural Puppy Food Diet?

Photo credit: dogsnaturally.co.uk

One of the best things a pet owner can do for their puppy is to provide it with the most nutritious food possible. While there are a variety of excellent puppy foods available at mass retailers, many owners are beginning to favor all-natural dog foods instead of mass-produced commercial brands. Because there are so many factors to consider in this process, it is important to weigh the pros and cons of starting your puppy on an all-natural diet.

The most obvious reason to start a puppy on an all-natural puppy food diet is the ability to control what he or she eats. When you make complete nutrition puppy food at home, you are ultimately in control of what the puppy consumes - something that you can't always do with a store bought puppy food brand. You do not have to worry if the puppy is consuming products that may be recalled in the future. The widespread pet food recalls of 2007, along with products still on the market that are reportedly dangerous, make many pet owners justifiably afraid of giving their pets a product that may be harmful to them. Because a puppy is more vulnerable to the possible dangers of commercially-produced pet food, deciding to prepare an all-natural, home-cooked diet is one way of preventing this issue.

While deciding to put your puppy on an all-natural diet may seem to be in the dog’s best interests, remember that there are some major downsides to selecting this dietary path. Preparing puppy food requires a great deal of planning—an issue with busy lifestyles. Puppies also have special dietary needs, which have already been addressed with commercial dog foods. Although it is possible to prepare all-natural pet foods at home despite a busy lifestyle with good planning, homemade pet food can also be cost-prohibitive. Because dogs require a meat-rich diet, the expense of healthy meats may increase the cost of feeding a pet considerably versus purchasing commercial dog food.

One compromise that many make in this argument is to select vet-recommended brands of pet food. Many of these brands are purchased exclusively at veterinarian’s offices. Other options include pre-made natural pet foods—containing real meat, vegetables, and small amounts of grain—often sold at major pet stores in the refrigerated section.

Choosing the right diet for your puppy can be a difficult decision. There are many dietary choices available for pet owners. Selecting the right diet for a puppy is a matter of weighing multiple considerations: time, cost, risk, nutrition, and lifestyle.

Did You Know That Demodectic Mange Comes In Two Different Types?

Demodectic Mange is a single specific skin problem in dogs, but what people usually don't realize is that it's often categorized into two types: localized and generalized. The main difference between the two is the severity of the symptoms in each type, but there are others as well, such as the locations of these symptoms on the body.

Spots of localized mange
Photo credit: k911.biz

Localized Mange

The symptoms of localized mange are generally milder than generalized mange; they mainly appear as small bald spots, and no more than five of them at that. The symptoms also frequently appear on the area around the head and neck, as well as the paws. It’s definitely possible for it to manifest in other spots, but the main feature to note is the limited number of bald spots that can be seen.

Generalized mange on a bulldog
Photo credit: findavet.us

Generalized Mange

This variant of demodectic mange is much more serious than the localized one, and if you’ve seen a dog with it before, you’ll know exactly what I mean.

In contrast with localized mange, generalized mange covers practically the entire surface of the body in red rashes, and the skin is further damaged in spots where the dog has scratched itself. This can result in some serious scarring, and it can be a very ugly sight if it isn’t stopped.

Why are there two different types of demodectic mange?

The distribution of localized and generalized mange may seem random, but the truth of the matter is that the severity of demodectic mange is predetermined by one simple factor: the immune system.

A demodex mite. Eww!
Photo credit: sciencephoto.com

Normally, the immune system is able to control the spread of the demodex mites that cause the mange. But when it grows weak, the mites will be able to overcome the immunity of the dog. This is how demodectic mange typically starts.

If a dog’s immunity is brought low for only a short time, the mites will only be able to affect a select few areas of the body before they are overcome again. This brings about symptoms that are classified as localized mange. Incidentally, puppies and dogs that have been ill are the only ones that get localized mange, and in their case, the immune system is easily repaired with just a bit of care given to them. Puppies will eventually mature and fully develop their immune system, and adult dogs will eventually recover from their illnesses.

However, the circumstances surrounding generalized mange are very different from localized mange. The generalized form of mange only occurs when a previous case of localized mange is allowed to progress unhindered, and will proceed to affect a significant portion of the body surface. This happens because the immune system remained weak throughout this period, long enough for the mange to worsen.

There are several reasons for the constantly low immunity. In some cases, this is due to a particularly vehement illness taking a toll on the body, or just plain old neglect. Apart from that however, it is far more likely that the dogs suffering from generalized mange all have one thing in common: a defective immune system.

This malfunctioning immune system is genetic in nature – it’s passed down from parent to child, which means that these dogs have had a weak immunity since the day they were born. Because of the nature of this disease, it’s also highly likely that their mother has the same trait as well. This defect will eventually become the cause of many health problems that will plague these dogs, but demodectic mange remains one of the most common problems simply because of its method of striking whenever the immune system is weak.

Here’s a summary of the article’s points:

- There are two types of demodectic mange: Localized and Generalized. They are commonly distinguished by the severity of the symptoms, as well as the locations where they occur.

- Localized mange usually has around five bald spots on the body, usually found near the head and neck area as well as the paws.

- Generalized mange is a more severe version of the skin problem, and is distinguished by the large area of rashes and damaged skin covering the dog.

- Mange is caused by a weak immune system, and the severity of the problem corresponds with the length of the period with low immunity; a shorter gap may translate to a minor case of localized mange, while an extended period increases the chances of developing into generalized mange.

- Localized mange is commonly seen in puppies or sick dogs, and can be cured relatively fast. It is possible that the problem can be resolved naturally (i.e. without any treatment given).

- Generalized mange is usually found in dogs that have been denied general care and concern, or have genetic defects resulting in a permanently damaged immune system.

While still considered the same problem, the difference between localized and generalized mange can be quite distinct. As a rule, localized mange can be easily taken care of, while a case of generalized mange will require more attention and treatment before the dog can make a full recovery.

Do you think your dog has generalized demodectic mange? Are you having problems getting rid of it? If you’d like to learn more about how to treat demodectic mange safely and effectively, visit http://dogskintreatments.com now to get started.

Why do cats like catnip?

We’ve all seen it...a frenzied cat rolling around in catnip, sheer ecstasy on their furry little face. They may start running around like a crazy cat, they may start eating the catnip, or they may start playing frantically with their favorite toy. And then in flash, the episode is over. What is it about catnip that makes cats go wild?

Photo credit: wildeherb.com

Catnip is a perennial herb  in the mint family that grows up to 3 feet tall and has white flowers. The leaves and stem contain a chemical called nepetalactone, which enters the cat’s system through the nose. Whether or not the cat responds to the chemical appears to be genetic, and about  50-75% of cats are affected by catnip.  Interestingly, large wild cats can also be affected by catnip! When a cat smells catnip, it acts as a stimulant, causing the wild running around and playing often witnessed. However, when a cat eats catnip, it acts as a sedative. That’s why you may see your kitty “zonk out” upon ingesting it. 

Nepetalactone is also believed to be a hallucinogen, similar to marijuana or possibly even LSD. Luckily cats cannot overdose or become addicted to catnip, nor is it harmful to them. Many theories exist on why exactly cats act the way they do on catnip, but the most prevailing belief is that it mimics the pheromone that attracts cats. The reaction may be somewhat sexual; the rolling behavior often exhibited is similar to that of female cats in heat. The reaction does not appear to be completely sexual, however, as other behaviors like playing, stalking, and pouncing often accompany a “catnip high.”

The effects of nepetalactone are short, and the average cat only responds to catnip for about 10 minutes.  After that, the effect dissipates and the cat will no longer react to catnip for at least several hours. Catnip for cats is a safe way to stimulate a cat’s desire to play, and is a fun addition to a cat’s playtime (assuming he or she is in the majority that reacts to catnip!) Catnip can be purchased at pet supply stores, or can be easily grown in a home garden. The homegrown variety tends to be quite strong, and many cats enjoy eating the fresh green leaves. It can also be dried and stored for your cat’s enjoyment all year long!

Using Ivermectin for Demodectic Mange, Explained

Ivermectin is one of the few medicines that vets regularly prescribe for dogs with demodectic mange. The drug is easy to administer, and results are usually seen within a short period of time. It's been proven many times over that Ivermectin is successful in curing the skin problem, but that doesn't mean it can be considered as the de-facto solution for it.

The problem with Ivermectin is that it isn't the wonder drug most people think it is. Yes, it does seem to get rid of the mange, but its only a temporary solution at best. And that's not to mention the various negative side-effects that can result from its use, some of which can even prove fatal.

How do you know if Ivermectin is the right type of treatment for your dog? Here are a few questions you should ask to help you decide.

What is Ivermectin?

Simply put, Ivermectin is an active ingredient in several medicines, specially designed for getting rid of parasites on a body. In the pet world, these are available in several products meant for different animals, like horses and dogs.

For dogs, two of the most popular products are 'Ivomec' or 'Heartgard', both of which are marketed as parasite control drugs. They affect skin parasites and several others that inhabit the bloodstream of the dog, such as heartworms. Incidentally, it is also used to prevent heartworm infestations in dogs as well, although that's not its primary purpose.

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How is it administered?

Ivermectin is usually produced in liquid or tablet form, which are administered to dogs orally - that is, the dogs are fed the drug.

The dosage measurements vary for each dog, determined by their weight. Usually the vet will provide the appropriate dosage, but generally speaking, a dose of 0.3mg/kg once every two weeks is sufficient for the treatment of demodectic mange. The liquid version of Ivermectin is sometimes packaged in filled syringes with set amounts, which makes it easier to gauge the dosage levels.

How does Ivermectin work?

Once it is administered to the affected dog, Ivermectin enters the bloodstream, using it as a means to affect the demodex mites in contact with the dog's skin.

From that point onwards, the drug does two things: Firstly, it disables the nervous systems of the mites, effectively paralysing them. Then, it manipulates the dog's white blood cells into attacking the mites and killing them. In this way, the mites will no longer cause further skin damage to the dog's body. So long as the drug remains in the body, the demodectic mange will be kept away indefinitely.

A minor note about Ivermectin: it doesn't affect unhatched demodex mites still in their eggs. Therefore, more than one dose of Ivermectin is required to completely eradicate the mites from the body.

Advantages of using Ivermectin

Ivermectin has actually been proven to be capable of destroying the mites efficiently, which is why vets are still recommending it as their first choice in treating demodectic mange.

The drug is also very easy to administer, since they're designed to be ingested orally and not given in the form of injections. This removes any effort required to calm the dog, since an injection can be a stressful experience.

Lastly, Ivermectin is relatively safe when used responsibly. This requires the vet and the owner to fully understand the dog's condition and to adapt the treatment accordingly. If extensive care and caution is exercised, Ivermectin should not cause any trouble in the short-term.

Disadvantages of using Ivermectin

So far, Ivermectin seems like the perfect method of demodectic mange treatment; it's safe, easy to use and most of all, it's effective. In spite of all this, however, there are still a few disadvantages of using Ivermectin that should be highlighted:

1.) It only solves half the problem.As we've said before, the purpose of Ivermectin is to kill off the mites that are causing demodectic mange to happen. However, that only settles part of the equation. The true key to stopping demodectic mange is to repair and rebuild your dog's immune system, because it's the only thing that can stop the demodex mites from appearing again. Even if all the mites are killed in one go (which is impossible, due to Ivermectin being unable to affect unhatched mites), the weak immune system will always be unable to prevent the mites from causing demodectic mange in future.

2.) Reliance on Ivermectin. This is somewhat related to the first point. Some owners may discover by themselves that the drug is indeed a short-term solution; once the treatment stops for the affected dog, the mange might come back. Because the immune system wasn't strong enough to handle the mites on its own before the Ivermectin was withdrawn, it still remains vulnerable to another attack and may cause a relapse.

At this point, the owner can pursue two options: keep the Ivermectin flowing to shut the mites out permanently using chemical drugs, or start building up the immune system to help the dog to recover on its own. Unfortunately, some owners choose the first option and suddenly find themselves spending a lot more in pet medical bills, just to keep the problem from spreading.

Besides the increased expenses, depending on Ivermectin as a long-term solution can also cause the immune system to 'slack off', letting the drug do all the work. When the Ivermectin doses eventually cease (which it eventually will), the dog will be essentially defenceless against the mites because its immunity is non-existent. The demodectic mange will most definitely reappear with a vengeance then.

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3.) Possible allergies to Ivermectin. This drug may be the default treatment recommended by vets to treat demodectic mange, but Ivermectin should never be given to some dogs due to possible allergic reactions.

Border collies and other herding breeds in particular are highly allergic to Ivermectin; a relatively low dose for another dog may be too much for a collie, and will cause severe side-effects such as lethargy, dehydration and even death.

Most people know about this innate allergy and will keep their dog away from the drug, but it actually isn't as widely known as it should be. Some professional vets may not even know that a border collie shouldn't receive a Ivermectin dose!

4.) Long term use may cause liver damage. This is another reason why Ivermectin should not be given over a long period of time. While relatively harmless when used as a temporary solution, the drug may cause damage to the liver in the long run. It's important to remember that Ivermectin is primarily a pesticide for use against parasites, which means that it's essentially a type of poison. Giving your dog Ivermectin for a year straight may hurt your dog as well.

Conclusion

Ivermectin is used to cure demodectic mange by killing the mites, and it does its job very well. The problem only starts when dog owners and even vets start treating it as a wonder drug due to a lack of understanding, and depend on it exclusively.

The one thing that you should know is that Ivermectin only solves the problem of a mite overpopulation on your dog's body as long as it's being administered; the mites will return as soon as it stops and will start the cycle all over again. The mange will only clear up if the mites are denied the chance to spread, and the only thing that can do that is the immune system of the dog. Unfortunately, the Ivermectin does nothing to help in that regard.

The only other way to control the mites is through continuous use of Ivermectin, but as we have discovered earlier on in this article, it's definitely not a feasible treatment plan for your dog.

You might be thinking of using Ivermectin as a plan to treat your dog's demodectic mange, but I'm sure you already know by now that I don't think it's the best thing to do. But there's no need to feel helpless - there are more solutions to demodectic mange than you know.

Simon has a miniature schnauzer and owns a website devoted to gathering information about dog skin problems. Do you need more information about demodectic mange? Just visit http://dogskintreatments.com to find out more about its causes, the demodex mite, as well as the various methods of treatment available.

How to Treat Your Pet's Allergies

When it's allergy season for you, it's also allergy season for your pets. Your pets can be allergic to pollen, dust, mold, certain foods -- even fleas or dander from other animals.

When your pets suffer from allergies, they can experience excessive itching or licking, particularly of the paws or the anus. They may even experience coughing, sneezing or runny eyes.

Your pets don't have to suffer through the season. There are many home remedies and medications that can help alleviate your pet's allergies and relieve symptoms. Here are a few you can try:

Soothing Baths

Many pet shampoos are formulated to soothe itchy skin and relieve allergy symptoms. Oatmeal shampoo is particularly helpful for relieving itch and reducing inflammation. If you don't want to buy the special blend, you can simply add a cup of oatmeal (uncooked) to your dog's bath water. Let the shampoo or the mix rest on your dog's skin for at least 10 minutes.

Simply washing your pet regularly can also help to relieve allergy symptoms by keeping the coat clear of allergens. Any pet shampoo can do the job!

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Hair Cuts

Long hair helps to trap dander, pollens, and other allergens close to the skin. It is also harder to keep clean. Trim hair regularly for easier maintenance and to keep skin clear of potential allergens.

Keeping hair trimmed also makes it easier to keep out fleas, which can cause an allergic reaction themselves or can break the skin with their bites, leaving it more vulnerable to other allergens.

Healthy Diet

Many commercially available pet foods are full of potential allergens, including wheat, corn, and additives. If you notice that your pet is experiencing allergies, determine if food is the culprit by trying an elimination diet. Choose a different brand of pet food that is free of known allergens and that is all natural and does not contain chemicals or additives. If your pet’s allergies clear up, diet was likely the cause.

Even if the food you buy is not the cause of the allergies, switching to a healthier brand of pet food may still help relieve the symptoms of other allergies. Foods that are rich in Vitamin E, Vitamin C, healthy fats like Omega-3 fatty acids, and bioflavanoids can all help to relieve allergy symptoms.

Topical Treatments

Many of the same over-the-counter treatments that can work for you can work for your pet (though you may have to purchase a salve that’s made especially for your pet). Anti-inflammatory creams, ointments, and witch hazel can all provide relief. Antihistamines like 

Benadryl can also combat an allergic reaction.

Talk to your vet to find out the proper dosage of these treatments for your pet, or to find out if you need to buy a similar product that is specially designed with your pet’s needs in mind.

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Holistic Treatment

Acupressure and Chinese herbs can offer your pet relief from allergies and a number of other illnesses. You can learn the acupressure points yourself to offer your pet some relief at home, or you can find a practitioner that specializes in providing care for pets. Chinese herbs can be ordered online, or you can find a practitioner with training in treating pets to create a special blend suited for your pet’s particular needs.

Of course, your vet can likely prescribe some medication to treat your pet’s allergies and to provide relief for symptoms like itchy, burning skin. If you can’t in to see your vet right away, or you’d like to offer your pet some non-medicated relief, these treatments may help. Try offering your pet soothing baths, experiment with diet, and offer holistic treatment. Soon your pet will stop itching and start loving the outdoors again!

Audrey Porterman is the main researcher and writer for doctoralprograms.org. Her most recent accomplishment includes graduating from Ohio State, with a degree in business management. Her current focus for the site involves doctoral degree programs and sociology phd programs.

4 Most Dangerous (And Possibly Lethal) Human Foods You Can Feed Your Dog

You may be the type of dog owner who loves to spoil their furry friend with table scraps and other human snacks. But while dogs are typically more appreciative of human food—after all, dried dog food can’t compare to your famous pot roast—you should really be careful about what human foods you feed your pet: some are toxic and can even be fatal if consumed in large dosages. That said, below are some of the more common foods you should never feed your pet no matter what.

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Onion

You may not voluntarily feed your dog huge chunks of raw onion (why would you?) but dog’s can get sick no matter how it’s prepared—sautéed, grilled, minced, or even in powder form. This is because onions contain a special enzyme that destroys your dog’s red blood cells, causing Heinz-body anemia. Thus it’s important that you learn how to carefully read food labels. Even some meat based baby foods, which some owners like to give to their aging dogs that have a hard time eating, contain onion powder for flavor. So be cautious of this common vegetable. You also want to make sure that it’s properly stored and tossed away, so your dog can’t get a hold of it.

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Chocolate and Coffee

You may think that dogs don’t have a sweet tooth, but the sugar found in chocolate does attract some curious dogs, especially puppies. But it’s not the sugar that is toxic to your dog. It’s the cacao, which contains caffeine and theobrime—two ingredients that are extremely poisonous to dogs. Thus naturally coffee beans and coffee grounds can be just as lethal. So make sure that your dog can’t get into the trash and accidently consume anything with caffeine, including most sodas.

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Avocados

Avocados are a controversial fruit because while most experts claim that it is hazardous to dogs, some pet food brands like to add avocado in their dog food to promote a healthy skin and a shinier coat. Makers like to argue that since persin—the fatty acid that can cause severe gastrointestinal issues in dogs—is only found in the leaves, skin, and the meat closest to the pit, their dog food is safe to eat. But I personally wouldn’t risk feeding my pet avocados, guacamole, or dried dog food that uses avocado as an ingredient. You just can never be too safe!

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Grapes/Raisins

It used to be an urban legend, but it is now confirmed that grapes and raisins are highly toxic to dogs—even as few as seven grapes or raisins (depending on your dog’s size) can cause irreversible damage to your dog’s kidneys and bring forth acute renal failure which leads to death in a matter of days. Experts have not been able to pin point exactly what’s in the grapes or raisins that is toxic to dogs, but it’s expected to be the mycotoxin.

Alvina Lopez is a freelance writer and blog junkie, who blogs about accredited online colleges. She welcomes your comments at her email: alvina.lopez@gmail.com.